Not at all! This tool is very easy to use and designed to take the frustration out of hardware installation for the homeowner and cabinet professional alike. It is used by many professionals due to the extreme time savings, unrivaled accuracy, and durable build quality.

12” CC (300mm). For cabinet handles larger than this 12″, purchase the Cabinet Hardware Jig MAX (TP-1935) to install hardware up to 38″ (960mm). If you already own the TP-1934, you can upgrade with the accessory kit TP-2312. For even longer pulls, multiple jigs can be conjoined via thumb screws to drill for any length of handle.

Yes! Just set up the tool for one door and you can flip and drill for the next. We recommend checking that your thumbscrews are still tight before drilling the next hole.

Yes, the bushings normally used on drawer fronts are 1/2” long which gives guidance for precise placement of the holes, just be sure to hold the jig so that it’s resting on the top stop against the top of the drawer.

If you have a lot of cabinets to drill in this style, it might make sense to tape a shim to the back of the jig to let you rest the bottom of the jig against the face of the drawer front.

Either way, go carefully and you’ll have no issues, the methods above are used by thousands of installers daily and work well. With that said, we will look to offer some adhesive shims in the future; it’s not necessary, just more convenient.

Always make sure to start with a sharp drill bit. Generally chipping is not an issue with the provided drill bit. Extra precautions include taping the work surface with blue painters tape. For melamines and veneers, consider using a brad point bit.

Always use a sharp drill bit and relieve chips as you drill by pulling the drill out of the work-piece as it’s running to spin off excess wood chips. Do not apply much pressure while drilling, especially at the end of the hole. Holding or clamping a sacrificial block of scrap wood against the back of the door while you drill is recommended for extra protection against blowout. In most cases the screw head covers any minimal blowout. In extreme cases, where a screw head would not cover minimal chipping from the exit of the drill, users will drill the hole halfway with a standard drill bit, then use a tapered drill bit to finish the hole. To prevent drilling injuries, always be aware of where your hands are positioned.

1/2″ The small and large end stops can also be reversed if extra clearance is needed. 

16″. Be advised, its typically not preferred to place hardware on the center of a large drawer front as it can make it more difficult to open. In most cases, placing the hardware more towards the top of the drawer front is desired for operation and aesthetics. 

Over the years, many! Changes to the jig include a larger top stop, more durable thumb screws, a redesigned end stop, and extending the bottom rail of the T-square by approx. 1”. We now also laser etch the numbers into the jig, where before we screen printed them over the aluminum T-square. Most recently, the tool has started shipping in a hard-plastic case instead of a cardboard box.

Yes! Every part of the tool is either covered under warranty or can be purchased separately. We have many commonly needed replacement parts available on our website. Please contact us here or call 760-279-3033 if you are having trouble finding the part you need.

Top (large) stop and T-square parts are only available as a set, as they need to be precision-mated in-house to a tolerance of .001” square for us to be able to guarantee their accuracy.